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Mike Sibley
STUDIO Workshops, UK:
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Including Perspective
June 24/25
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August 4/5
COMPOSITION
Including Perspective
October 14/15
FOUNDATION +
October 28/29

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JD Hillberry
Workshops
Westminster, CO :
September 22 - 24, 2017

Subject: Rougher Skin

Fort Worth, TX :
November 10 - 12, 2017

Subject: Trompe l'Oeil

Fort Worth, TX :
November 17 - 19, 2017

Subject: Smooth Skin

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Question for Mike

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Manuel_A » Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:16 pm

Hi Ken,

It’s a challenge to find them, and mike’s not talking he won’t give up his stash. As al said,
you have to look around and hope you come across some.

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby KenBrown » Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:58 pm

I've got plenty in my stash for now ... in fact I don't think I'll be shopping for replacements for at least another 5 or more years. They last about forever.

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Manuel_A » Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:11 pm

Ok ken,

How many do you have, and what grade of lead? :D

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby KenBrown » Thu Feb 07, 2013 12:22 am

Well, let's see ... 11-4H, 10-2H, 11-H, 11-HB, 8-2B and 16-4B (I had to buy a second tray of these). That's what's left after 7 years of drawing from my original 12 packs. At this rate, I'm thinking I might not need any more for another 30 yeas or so.

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Manuel_A » Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:02 am

Hi Ken,

I’m jealous. Would you like to sell some of them? Or pm me your suppliers website so
I can order some of thus Staedtler Mars Carbon 2mm Leads.

Thank You,

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby KenBrown » Thu Feb 07, 2013 2:02 pm

I haven't bought any in years, but I have two places that seem to carry them ...

http://www.misterart.com/drawing-illust ... leads.html

http://www.rexart.com/mar_lumograph_leads.html

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Manuel_A » Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:09 pm

Hi Ken,

Thank You, Ken for sharing. :D

I tried to cancel my order at amazon they said no, next time

Thank you,

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Mike Sibley » Fri Feb 08, 2013 5:50 pm

LonnyClouser wrote:I was on your site looking for the AMA interview that someone mentioned (didn't find it yet)

It's on the front page - just below the workshops news.

I'd give my right hand to go to one of your workshops - you're coming to North Carolina!

That's the plan. My local contact is waiting to hear back from the arts centre he thinks will make a good venue. Assuming it goes ahead, it will be in September.

ANYWAY - you advocate working from dark to light and go on to explain that it's because a decision hasn't been made about how dark to go (paraphrasing).... I have always worked light to dark...But then I realized that I am wimpy - I'm afraid of the dark. I draw primarily people - so I'm not sure how to go about establishing the darks first on what is a basically a "soft" subject? Would you be able describe how you would start a portrait working from dark to light? I'd love to give this way of working a try.

Before I begin a drawing I always work out where my darkest value is going to be. If there isn't somewhere suitable in the reference, I'll manufacture a place for it, because it's important. When someone first looks at a drawing their minds look for two things - the lightest value (the paper), which they read as being white, even if it's off-white, and the darkest value that they understand to be black. All other values now fall into place.

So, if your darkest value is too light, it will suggest an overcast day or mist. Either will produce a flat drawing. By introducing a dark value you immediately have a much wider range of values available to you, and that range will permit you to fully describe the three-dimensional form.

Whether you draw dogs or people, placing the initial dark value is easy - the pupils of the eyes, and the nostrils of a dog, or possibly the value between a human's parted teeth if the mouth is partly open. In a dog I'd also use an intense shadow to lift the ear (assuming it's hanging) away from the face.

If you can place that dark tone at the start, all your intermediate tones now fall into place - you have something to refer to at either end of the scale.
Mike Sibley
Website: www.SibleyFineArt.com
Book: Drawing from Line to Life
Blog : Drawing from Line to Life blog
Visit my Starving Artists for free and subscription galleries

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Mike Sibley » Fri Feb 08, 2013 5:55 pm

canliketobe wrote:Manuel, looked at Staedler's International Website, only grades for 2mm Lead holders are:

HB B H 2B 2H 4B 4H

You can get F in the Mechanical Pencils from Staedler but not in 2mm

Steadtler ceased manufacturing the F grade last year. I prefer it to HB and still have a good supply in stock, but HB, or even H, can easily fill the gap.
Mike Sibley
Website: www.SibleyFineArt.com
Book: Drawing from Line to Life
Blog : Drawing from Line to Life blog
Visit my Starving Artists for free and subscription galleries

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby LonnyClouser » Fri Feb 08, 2013 6:24 pm

Mike -

Thank you so much for your reply!!

I was looking back at some of my earlier drawings and trying to imagine what they would look like with a black (or dark) background - and the answer is "seriously washed out." I think that I've come a long way since then, but I've still got a way to go - your advice will definitely help me to get there.

Lonny

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby sista pencil » Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:23 pm

wow, it is something when a *great* pencil grade is discontinued, as you mentioned, here, Mike [referring to *F*]. I have that one that I bought in a package in about 1999. I never thought of it going out of stock or manufacturing. I guess things continently change, don't they. Now I know and won't look for it, when mine is down to nothing. :(

Irma [aka amri]

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Michaeljohn » Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:37 am

just below the workshops news.




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Re: Question for Mike

Postby Mike Sibley » Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:36 pm

sista pencil wrote:wow, it is something when a *great* pencil grade is discontinued, as you mentioned, here, Mike [referring to *F*]. I have that one that I bought in a package in about 1999. I never thought of it going out of stock or manufacturing. I guess things continently change, don't they. Now I know and won't look for it, when mine is down to nothing. :(


You need to sit down for this....... It gets worse....

I receive so many requests for sources of Staedtler clutch pencils and leads that I teamed up with my own supplier and they'll be available in my website's shop as soon as I've completed the pages. BUT I found out that some of the grades I ordered are also no longer available... 6B, 6H and 8H, and you can add F to that of course - and probably 7H too.

My guess is that the popularity of CAD has severely diminished the need for pencils in design studios - and clutch pencils are really technical drawing instruments.
Mike Sibley
Website: www.SibleyFineArt.com
Book: Drawing from Line to Life
Blog : Drawing from Line to Life blog
Visit my Starving Artists for free and subscription galleries

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby KenBrown » Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:53 pm

I switched to 2mm Staedtler refills on reading your LTL book when it was first released. Even back then I could only find 4H, 2H, H, HB, 2B and 4B. I only really looked on this side of the puddle however. I also use a 6H quite a bit but I have to use a wooden pencil for it ... of course, it's so hard that after 7 years of drawing I have yet to need to sharpen it a second time. I suspect it will last me the rest of my life and possibly as a family heirloom down through the next 4-5 generations when it may need a resharpen. I still see the refills advertised but only at a couple drafting supply outlets. I'm probably set for the rest of my drawing career with all the grades I use, but it's nice to know you'll have them if/when I need to resupply - at least at the moment. I've tried the competition as well ... but nothing compares to the creamy quality of Staedtler as well as the quality control (no particles of debris in the sticks), and they have a pleasing color.

Ken

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Re: Question for Mike

Postby john c » Sun Apr 28, 2013 12:33 am

I think you should read Mikes book as a guide and not as a drawing bible (yes I to have a copy) Use it to improve your style. I always draw from light to dark, simply because it easier to make some thing darker then it is to make it lighter. So you can build-up your dark's as you go.
PM me about the book.

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